If you have a JR Pass in your possession, and you are wondering what to visit after doing the typical Tokyo - Kyoto - Osaka - Hiroshima route, then I recommend that you finish your trip in the city of Kagoshima.
Located in southern Japan, Kagoshima is a slightly less touristy destination that few people talk about on the Internet. Perhaps because there is little to do on site you will tell me?
Having visited it for 3 days in October 2022, I can only bow to the beauty that this city offers.
Concretely, it is a city of about 600,000 inhabitants with a volcano in front of it that is still active, Sakurajima. Its particularity lies in its numerous thermal springs whose water comes from the volcano. It is therefore not uncommon to come across public baths in the middle of the city, whose cost is derisory.
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How do I get to Kagoshima?
Access is easy by Shinkansen (equivalent to the French TGV). From Tokyo, the travel time is around 6:30am. I do not necessarily recommend taking a direct trip because you will lose time in transport. Instead, leave from fukuoka if you are already there. The trip will only take you 1.5 hours.
With a JR Pass, you won't have to pay anything, that's the advantage of getting one before you leave for Japan! Otherwise, you will have to pay 10,600 yen one way (around €70).
If not, flying is another alternative. It can be cheaper if you are flying from Tokyo or Osaka. Use as a last resort if you are concerned about carbon emissions.
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Visit the city of Kagoshima
Kagoshima is above all a city whose main activity is visiting the volcano, the Sengan-en Garden and the onsen (or public bath).
Say it like that, it may not seem like much and that it is not worth it to travel all the way to the south of Japan, but think again! Because you will still have plenty to do around the city. You'll see why in the next part.
Here is a preview of the map with the list of things I did and recommend doing at least once when going to Kagoshima!
But first let's come to visit Sakurajima, which in my opinion is one of my best visits in Japan and a MUST when you arrive in Kagoshima.
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Visit Sakurajima volcano
Of all the volcanoes that exist in Japan, Sakurajima is the one that is still active. It is not uncommon to see smoke fumes, whether during the day or in the middle of the night. But don't worry, it's not dangerous to venture around!
On the menu of the tour, a bit of hiking, a magnificent view of the city of Kagoshima from the volcano and a public bath.
When you get to the place after taking the ferry, head to the right. Because it is in this direction that you will have the main activities.
To begin with, the hike will allow you to admire the volcano up close. On your way, cats will cross your path to ask you to feed them. Also note that there is almost no difference in altitude, so it is very convenient to contemplate the view around you without being out of breath. However, I invite you to wear trekking shoes for more comfort.
At the end of the hike, you will reach the Karasujima Observatory. From there, you will have a great view of Sakurajima.
Then, you have two options: either you decide to turn back the same way, or you take the bus to go all the way around the volcano. In front of the observatory is the bus station to allow you to go to several observatories: a few hundred meters away is the Akamizu Observatory, then on the other side of the volcano the Yunohira Observatory.
The bus line Sakurajima Island View passes every 30 minutes and allows you to complete a complete tour of the volcano in just under 1 hour. It serves the main activities to be carried out and takes you back to the ferry. So you won't have any trouble when it comes to public transport.
For my part, I chose to retrace my steps in order to enjoy the public baths. Because not far from the ferry there is a center where you can relax in the hot springs and enjoy a splendid view from the baths: Sakurajima Magma Onsen Hot Spring.
The entrance fee is only 500 yen, and you can stay as long as you want! Of course, remember that you will have to be completely naked to enter the water. Japanese habits and customs require it.
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Sengan-en Garden
To the north of the city is a garden known by the Japanese for its many small gardens as well as a view of Sakurajima: the Sengan-en Garden. Access can be made from the line of Kagoshima City View bus.
On site, admire the extent of green spaces worthy of a real zen garden. I'll let you make up your own mind through these few photos.
When it comes to the admission price, you have two choices:
- For 1000 yen, you have access to the garden and the museum Shoko Shuseikan
- For 1500 yen, you have access to the garden, museum and Shimadzu family house.
For my part, I only did the garden. Because it seems to me that the museum was not yet open at that time. Never mind, I still enjoyed the short walk in the garden!
For more information on the museum and the house, I invite you to consult directly the official website of Sengan-en !
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The public bath Myouban no Yu
Kagoshima is not only known for its beautiful view of Sakurajima, but also for its numerous public baths that are accessible throughout the city.
In particular, there is one that I really appreciated, especially for its proximity to the main station, but also because the host of my hostel recommended it to me: it is the Myouban no Yu public bath.
Only 5 minutes from the train station, you can go recharge your batteries in the hot springs, or even better, take your evening bath before returning to the hostel to bed. A perfect destination after walking around the city for a long time to unwind!
But who says public bath says to be naked. Remember to bring your own bath towel and spare things if you are not going to take a shower when you get home.
The price is only 420 yen. As an onsen fanatic, I have no regrets about spending this amount for my own pleasure.
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What to eat in Kagoshima?
To be very honest with you, there are only two restaurants that I have been able to taste. And it was just ramen. At the time, I admit that I did not make an effort to try other dishes. My priority was onsen and adventure over food.
If you like sushi, then I invite you to try this restaurant that a Japanese man told me about during a discussion in my inn, but which I unfortunately did not have time to test: Mawaru Sushi Mekkemon Dolphin Port.
Nevertheless, I was very surprised by the two ramen restaurants. One had a particular ramen dish based on beef intestine, the other a bit more traditional but whose taste was really intense.
Satsuma Wajo-Men Kagaribi
The restaurant Satsuma Wajo-Men Kagaribi Can you consider it a candid restaurant. The front doesn't seem to look like much, but the dishes this one offers look really good.
You only have to look at the passion of the owners who make their dish to immediately know the final verdict. The counter is relatively narrow, but that's what gives the restaurant this really friendly side.
For my part, I chose ramen with beef intestines. What could be better than to travel tastefully, isn't it?
And frankly, I thought it was pretty good! You can feel the taste of ramen, but what makes the difference is the fairly “chewy” side of the intestines that makes the whole dish really original.
Besides the fact that appearance may disgust more than one person, for a real culinary experience, I can only advise you.
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KYushu Misonoya Tenmonkanten
The second ramen restaurant is in my opinion a little less well known, because it is not highlighted well enough unlike other restaurateurs in my opinion. So I went without thinking to this restaurant called Kyushu Misonoya Tenmonkanten.
To my surprise, I found the dish I chose really delicious. The taste of the broth was intense, giving the noodles more flavor. The eggs and meat are cooked with perfect timing, making their texture tender.
A significant point is that few tourists venture there because the menu is only in Japanese.
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What to do after Kagoshima?
More than a city, Kagoshima is also a prefecture with a lot of small corners that very few or no tourists venture there. The reason is that some places are quite difficult to access without a car. Although there are buses, you should know that arrival and departure times vary widely.
But if you have time to visit this beautiful prefecture, then without hesitation, I advise you to visit the following places.
Kirishima Shrine
When you pass by the city of Kagoshima and you have time in front of you, then without hesitation I invite you to visit this magnificent sanctuary lost in the middle of the forest.
To get there from Kagoshima City, you can take the local train from Central Station to Miyazaki. You will have to get off at Kirishima-Jingu station and then take the bus located in front of the station to take you to the shrine.
Be careful though, the bus arrives at fairly specific times. The magnifying glass will lead you to wait 1 hour or 2 hours before the next departure. And I am speaking with full knowledge of the facts. Fortunately, I was able to meet two nice Japanese girls by accident who took me by car directly there!
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Kirishima City
Besides its sanctuary, the city of Kirishima is what you might consider to be the Japanese countryside.
What makes it really interesting is the atmosphere that emanates from it. The landscape is breathtaking as it feels like being in an animated one. Strolling through the heart of this city would almost make us forget our visit to the sanctuary.
In my opinion, it is a favorite destination for those who want to see real Japanese life. There are fields as far as the eye can see, small streams that flow along the houses, and the icing on the cake, a view of the Sakurajima volcano.
Getting there is quite easy if you come from the sanctuary. At the entrance of the sanctuary, you will find a bus station that will take you directly into the city.
Stop at Kubota station (it will be written in Japanese under the symbol KĹŤjĹŤ, or pay attention to the announcement of the next stop), a surprise will await you on site.
You may not guess it, but they are indeed hot springs, this time private!
For €20 per hour, here is what awaits you in this magnificent place in an idyllic setting.
The return to Kagoshima will of course be done by train by taking it from Kokubu station. You will probably have to walk about 30 minutes from the hot springs to get to the resort.
The city of Ibusuki
Before I even tell you about the city of Ibusuki, I want to let you know that I did not know this place at all.
It took 2 days before I decided to visit it because I had no idea what to visit after doing Kagoshima and Kirishima. Especially since the latter gave me a real monumental slap in the face and that I will remember forever.
And as always, Japan always has surprises in store for me with each new discovery.
Ibusuki is located in the south of Kagoshima, and can be reached by local train in the direction of Makurazaki. You will have to get off at Ibusuki station to get there safely.
The city is best known for its numerous traditional onsen. Some of them date back to over 100 years ago and are maintained by the locals. For now, the traditional side lies in the fact that they were built entirely with wood. The cabin that covers the onsen is also made of wood.
It is mainly the inhabitants of the city who come to recharge their batteries in these baths, because they are very inexpensive. Count around 300 yen to enjoy it at will.
Continuing the same theme, you will find a fairly special place that offers you a hot sand bath. To do this, you have to go to Saraku Sand Bath Hall.
It's typically the kind of place you'd like to try at least once in your life. The principle is to dig in the sand deep enough for you to settle down comfortably. Once settled, you are covered with sand over your entire body except your face to form a pile on the surface, as if you were in a coffin. Since this sand is heated thanks to the heat of the water coming from deep down, you will quickly feel the heat that emanates from the sand.
According to them, this process would have benefits for your body because it would eliminate the toxins in your body by ensuring that your body evacuates them through sweat.
Finally, before returning to Kagoshima, I invite you to pass a visit to my ramen restaurant, if not MY favorite in Kyûshū: Menya Jiro.
As a picture is worth a thousand words, I'll let you imagine the taste of the ramen I chose. “Itadakimasu” as a Japanese would say who would like to have a good appetite in French!
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How do I get around Kagoshima?
There is clearly no shortage of public transport in Kagoshima. Between the bus, the tram and the local train, you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to getting around.
As for the bus, here is the complete path for the Kagoshima City View bus line, ideal for touring the city and visiting the main places:
As for the local train, I invite you to anticipate your trips directly via the official site HyperDia. All you need to do is look at the departure station and the train station closest to your destination. Specify the time you want to leave, and you will have the exact time and travel time.
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Where to stay in Kagoshima?
Since Kagoshima is not very touristy, there are fewer youth hostels to stay in for several nights compared to Kyoto for example.
For my part, I had the opportunity to have tried 3 different hostels. When I was in Kagoshima, there were no tourists, which was relatively complicated to meet people to talk to.
The first inn (which was not one by the way) was in fact run by a resident who provided space to allow the traveller to sleep on the floor.
The real positive was that the host is a very friendly person with a desire to make us feel good during the stay. The downside was that she didn't know how to speak English. By tinkering with two or three words in Japanese, I was able to make myself understood, but the discussions with the host did not fly high. Unfortunately, this accommodation is no longer available online.
The second unit corresponds to Shiroyama Guesthouse Banvina. Located not far from the city center, it is therefore the perfect location to be able to travel, whether to go to the main station, or in the city itself. However, there was almost no cat when I spent the night there. To take this remark with a grain of salt since I left just when the post-covid borders reopened.
Finally, the third unit, Guesthouse Banvina, is right next to the main train station. This time there is a common area to allow you to meet travelers. As a result, I met a lot more travelers than in the 2 previous ones. It is therefore a good starting point to start your stay.
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Conclusion
My opinion on Kagoshima in 3 words: favorite! There is nothing like a city where life is good to live with breathtaking landscapes.
Take a minimum of 3 days to really take the time to admire the main places. It is not uncommon to come across nice little corners.
Whether by train, bus or even on foot, public transport is quite present to allow you to get around quickly. You will therefore have no trouble accessing some remote places if you decide to get away from the city.
On the gastronomic level, unfortunately, I cannot recommend dishes from Kagoshima, because I have not yet tasted it. However, I invite you to stop by and check out the ramen restaurants in the “What to eat in Kagoshima?” section.
Hoping to have made you want to visit this wonderful volcanic city!
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